Best Toilets in 2026: 6 Top Picks by Home Type

The best toilet for most homes in 2026 is a 1.28 GPF, elongated, chair-height model with a wide flush valve and a fully glazed trapway, and the TOTO Drake II is the safest all-round example. If you want a one-piece for easier cleaning, the TOTO Ultramax II is the step up, while the Kohler Highline and the Woodbridge T-0001 cover mid-range and tight-budget shoppers. Flush performance, bowl shape and your rough-in measurement matter far more than the logo on the tank.

Our top picks

Top pickTOTO Drake Two-Piece Elongated 1.6 GPF Universal

• TORNADO FLUSH swirls water in a circular pattern…
• TOTO's Universal Height is taller than a standard…
• The 1.6 gallon per flush Drake enables you…

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Also greatTOTO Aquia IV WASHLET+ Two-Piece Elongated Dual

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Also greatTOTO Entrada Two-Piece Round 1.28 GPF Universal

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Also greatTOTO® Drake® WASHLET®+ Two-Piece Elongated 1.28 GPF

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Quick Comparison of the Best Toilets

Best Overall: TOTO Drake II

The TOTO Drake II is a two-piece, elongated, 1.28 GPF toilet built around TOTO’s Tornado Flush system. Published comparisons list a Maximum Performance (MaP) result of 1,000 grams for the Drake II, the top score the independent MaP protocol reports, which means it clears that much simulated waste in a single flush. The bowl carries TOTO’s CeFiONtect glaze, a smooth ceramic finish designed to resist staining and film, and the large flush valve moves water quickly.

It is a sensible pick because it does not depend on features that can fail. There is no pressure-assist tank, no electronics and no unusual parts, so any plumber can repair it with a standard flapper and fill valve. The trade-off is the two-piece design: the tank-to-bowl joint and the exposed base give you a few more seams to wipe than a one-piece model.

Best One-Piece: TOTO Ultramax II

The Ultramax II uses the same Tornado Flush idea in a one-piece body with a lower, smoother profile. With no tank joint, there is less to clean, and the lines suit modern bathrooms. TOTO lists a 1.28 GPF flush and a skirted design with a hidden trapway.

The cost of that convenience is weight and price. One-piece toilets are heavy, often more than 80 pounds, so plan on two people for installation, and a cracked tank means replacing the entire fixture rather than one part.

Best Value From a Big Brand: Kohler Highline

The Kohler Highline comes in many configurations: elongated or round-front, 10, 12 or 14 inch rough-in, single or dual flush, and a taller seat version. It uses Kohler’s Class Five flushing system. Flush strength is good, though most Kohler models are commonly listed at 800 grams on the MaP scale rather than the 1,000 grams TOTO claims, so a heavy load can occasionally need a second flush.

Its main strength is flexibility and parts availability. Kohler repair kits are stocked widely, and the range of rough-in sizes makes it a good swap for older homes.

Best for Clog Resistance: American Standard Champion 4

The American Standard Champion 4 pairs a 1.6 GPF tank with a large flush valve and a wide, fully glazed trapway. It is a gravity design, but it has a reputation among plumbers for moving a lot of waste with a single flush. The extra water per flush is the trade-off: it uses 25 percent more than a 1.28 GPF model. For households with older drain lines or frequent clogs, that headroom is useful.

Best Compact: Kohler Santa Rosa

The Santa Rosa is a one-piece compact elongated toilet, which gives you an elongated seat in a footprint closer to a round-front bowl. Kohler’s own sizing puts compact elongated models under 28 inches from the wall, a meaningful gain in a powder room. It is offered in a 1.28 GPF version and a 1.6 GPF version with Revolution 360 swirl flushing. If the room is tight, it is the best-balanced option; if not, the Highline offers more variety.

Best Budget Dual Flush: Woodbridge T-0001

The Woodbridge T-0001 is a one-piece, elongated, dual-flush toilet that offers 0.8 and 1.28 GPF settings at a price below the big names. Published comparisons list it at 800 grams MaP and a five-year limited warranty. Long-term reliability data is thinner than for TOTO or Kohler, and replacement parts are less common in local plumbing shops, so keep the model number handy. For a guest bath or rental, it delivers the features most buyers want.

How to Choose a Toilet

Measure the rough-in first

Measure from the finished wall behind the toilet (not the baseboard) to the center of the closet bolts. Twelve inches is the standard in most homes; ten and fourteen inch rough-ins exist. A 12 inch toilet will not fit a 10 inch rough-in without special offset hardware.

Pick the right bowl shape and height

Elongated bowls run roughly 2 inches longer than round-front bowls and add 2 to 4 inches of projection from the wall. Standard height is about 15 inches to the rim; comfort height (also called right height or ADA height) is 17 to 19 inches including the seat. Taller adults and anyone with knee or hip stiffness usually prefer the higher seat. Children and shorter users may find it awkward.

Look at flush technology, not just gallons

The federal maximum is 1.6 GPF and WaterSense models use 1.28 GPF or less. A bigger flush valve (3 to 4 inches), a fully glazed trapway and a good MaP score matter more than the label on the tank. Pressure-assist toilets flush harder but are louder; dual-flush models save water on liquid waste.

Decide between one-piece and two-piece

One-piece models are easier to clean and look cleaner. Two-piece models are lighter to carry, easier to get up stairs, and cheaper to repair, because you can replace the tank or bowl alone.

What a Water-Saving Toilet Is Worth: A Worked Example

Take a household of four, with each person flushing five times a day: 20 flushes daily. A 1.6 GPF toilet uses 32 gallons a day, or 11,680 gallons a year. A 1.28 GPF model uses 25.6 gallons a day, or 9,344 gallons a year, saving about 2,336 gallons annually. A dual-flush toilet at 0.8 GPF for liquid waste can save more when about two-thirds of flushes are liquid. Multiply the savings by your local combined water and sewer rate to see how fast a newer toilet pays off.

Common Mistakes

• Buying before measuring rough-in or the space in front of the bowl (allow at least 21 inches of clearance, with 24 preferred).
• Choosing the lowest-gallon model and ignoring MaP scores; a weak flush wastes water on double flushing.
• Forgetting that the seat is often sold separately on two-piece toilets.
• Skipping a new wax ring and supply line when replacing an old unit.

Which Toilet Should You Buy?

Decision Matrix by Household

Whatever you choose, keep the receipt, the model number and the rough-in measurement together. Mismatched rough-ins and missing seats are the two most common reasons new toilets get returned.

Step-by-Step: Replacing a Toilet and What to Check

1. Shut off the supply valve, flush, and sponge out the remaining water. Reason: a wet bowl is heavy and messy to lift.
2. Disconnect the supply line and remove the closet bolt caps and nuts. Reason: stuck nuts are the most common cause of a cracked base, so cut them with a hacksaw blade if they will not turn.
3. Lift the old toilet straight up and scrape off the old wax. Reason: leftover wax prevents a new seal from seating.
4. Inspect the flange. It should sit on top of the finished floor, not below it, and the metal ring should be solid. A damaged flange needs a repair ring before the new toilet goes on.
5. Set a new wax ring or a wax-free gasket, lower the toilet straight down onto the bolts, and press firmly. Reason: lifting it again to reposition breaks the seal.
6. Tighten the nuts alternately, a little at a time, until the toilet is snug and does not rock. Reason: ceramic cracks under uneven pressure.
7. Reconnect the supply line, open the valve, let the tank fill, and flush several times while looking for leaks at the base and the tank connection.
8. Run a bead of caulk around the front and sides of the base, leaving the back open so a leak would show.

Maintenance schedule

Clearances and Code: Will It Fit Where You Plan to Put It?

Rough-in distance gets most of the attention, but the room around the bowl decides whether a toilet is usable. The International Residential Code, in the 2018, 2021 and 2024 editions, calls for at least 15 inches from the toilet centerline to any side wall, vanity or tub, and at least 21 inches of clear space in front of the bowl. Some jurisdictions that follow the Uniform Plumbing Code require 24 inches in front, so check the edition your local building department has adopted. Designers often plan about 18 inches to each side and 24 to 30 inches in front for comfort.

These distances are taken to the finished surface, so tile, baseboard and a swinging door all count. A compact bowl helps with the front measurement, but it does nothing for the side measurement, which is fixed by the centerline of the drain.

Reading Flush Test Numbers

Gallons per flush is only half of a performance claim. The EPA WaterSense label requires a tank-type toilet to use no more than 1.28 gallons per flush and to clear a minimum of 350 grams of test media in a single flush, in at least four of five attempts. Independent Maximum Performance (MaP) reports test up to 1,000 grams, almost three times the WaterSense threshold. When two models share the same gallons figure, a published MaP score is the more useful tiebreaker. A missing score is not proof of weak performance, but it leaves you relying on the label alone.

The Flange, Wax Ring and Bolts

A leaky or rocking toilet usually traces back to the floor connection rather than the fixture. Most installation guides agree on these points:

• The top of the flange should sit level with the finished floor, or up to about a quarter inch above it. A flange below the floor surface is the position to avoid, and a flange extender fixes it.
• A flange sitting too high stops the base from resting flat and lets the toilet rock, which breaks the wax seal.
• Use a new wax ring every time a toilet is lifted, and dry-fit the bowl first to feel for rocking.
• Tighten closet bolts alternately in small turns until the bowl stops moving, then stop. Over-tightening is a leading cause of cracked bases, and bolts should never be used to pull the porcelain down over a high flange.

Troubleshooting After Installation

Frequently Asked Questions

What is the best toilet brand?

TOTO is the most consistent performer in published MaP data, with Kohler and American Standard close behind. Brand matters less than the specific model, so check the flush rating and warranty for the exact toilet you buy.

Is a 1.28 GPF toilet strong enough?

Yes, if the model has a good MaP score and a wide flush valve. Many 1.28 GPF toilets clear 800 to 1,000 grams. Poorly designed ones can need two flushes, which cancels the water savings.

How long does a toilet last?

The porcelain itself can last decades. Flappers, fill valves and wax rings usually need replacing every few years, which is inexpensive routine maintenance.

Are one-piece toilets better?

They are easier to clean and often look better, but they are heavier and cost more. Two-piece models are easier to install and repair, so neither is strictly better.

Do I need a plumber to replace a toilet?

Many homeowners can do it with basic tools, since it involves shutting off the water, removing the old unit and setting the new one on a fresh wax ring. If the flange is damaged or the floor is rotted, call a professional.

Should I buy comfort height?

For most adults, yes. The 17 to 19 inch seat height makes sitting and standing easier, but short users and small children may prefer a standard height.